In 1953, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck romanced Rome on the big screen in Roman Holiday; 53 years later, the Cochrans find the Eternal City perfect for family bonding.
By Ann Cochran – originally published in Executive Traveler Magazine, May 2007
Gripping the seat in front of me was funny for a minute, but then shock set in. Could this Italian bus driver really be doing the equivalent of 70 mph in downtown Rome? We careened around corners, skin attractively pulled back by gravity. After any brief slowdown during our fifteen minute ride, he gained time on straight stretches. We all looked at each other and laughed. For our three guys ages 19 to 30, it was probably a from-the-gut belly laugh. Our two young ladies in their twenties were wide eyed, and my husband, cousin, and I thought we might die. Our laughter was the nervous kind.
We eventually and gratefully staggered off to our hotel, the place we nicknamed ‘the good-enough hotel.’ I’ve always believed money spent on family vacations is a priceless investment, especially for a blended family. Nothing bonds a family like danger and odd lodgings, but this was not a low-budget vacation – it just had certain aspects of a big-budget family vacation comedy.
With our four children scattering across the country and overseas, and with one married, we decided it was time for a family vacation. We also cajoled my cousin Silvia away from Manhattan and her too-busy hospital job. We debated everything from a classic mountain resort to a cruise before I returned to my maternal side’s Italian roots like a homing pigeon.
Rome met with 100% enthusiasm. Large cities tend to be perfect for groups; they have the proverbial ‘something for everyone,’ from fine art to sporting events. What’s not to love about a place with ancient history, dramatic cathedrals, high style shopping, soccer, and inspiring scenery for the photographers in our midst? No one minded pastry for breakfast, pasta every night, and gelato in between.
A ‘Good Enough’ Hotel
We intended for this trip to be mainly our treat, and to afford four rooms for seven nights it would not be the kind of place Chuck and I would book for the two of us (sorry, kids). Despite all the ads online and elsewhere about package deals to everywhere, when it came time to make our arrangements, nada. If I found a good air/hotel package, the hotel I chose could not accommodate all of us. We wanted something with character; many old European hotels are small. All the ‘gems’ I read or heard about did not have enough rooms. Finally, I threw in the towel and turned over the search to my son Clayton, a savvy Manhattan advertising executive.
Our hotel had to be downtown, near a bus stop and preferably also near a subway stop. There had to be restaurants and shops in a few-block radius, and a church or two: not a problem in Rome. After considering many options, we went with the three-star Hotel Luxor near the Piazza della Repubblica.
Luxor’s rates are extremely reasonable for a fantastic location and big breakfast spread with unlimited lattes. We paid 130 euros per double, 90 for singles. There wasn’t much around for less than 200 euros in central Rome at the time. Clayton and his wife Rebecca found that out when they arrived a day early without reservations. May/June and September/October are now considered high season in many parts of Europe.
Combo Deals: couples, kids-only, boys-only, worker bees, and singles
We were an eight-pack for special tours and dinner. Otherwise, everyone felt free to go off on their own, catch up on work or e-mail at an Internet café, or search for a new museum or more comfortable pair of shoes. What often happened was that one group would discover something, like the botanical gardens in Trastevere, and those who weren’t there would go later on in the week.
Mangia, Mangia
A monkey could find good food in Italy, so no one should go crazy from one side of town to the other pursuing the latest hot spot. There was a fine neighborhood trattoria around the corner from our hotel, and another up the street. We made a habit of returning to places we loved.
One of our favorites was San Marco, near the Borghese Gardens and not far from the Via Veneto. It is strikingly modern, with long cherry tables, salvaged grocery store cabinets, and murals of Andy Warhol quotes. Behind the bar is a long chalkboard scribbled with drawings and daily specials. The food was top notch; we had one lunch and one dinner here.
We made reservations to dine at the oldest wine bar in Rome and twice ended up at L’Enoteca Antica on Via della Croce. It’s near the Spanish Steps, where any visitor to Rome is going to end up early and often.
Regular gelato was delizioso enough for us, and we indulged daily, but after reading and hearing about Il Gelato di San Crispino countless times, and since it was near the Trevi Fountain, we went one night after tossing our corny coins in with the masses. This gelato was high cuisine: you won’t find balsamic vinegar gelato on every street corner. Beware too-insider food trends. We trekked to much-lauded restaurant Uno e Bino and although it was fine dining, the portions were teeny tiny and the prices troppo grande.
A Church on Every Corner
No one would suggest skipping landmark churches, but almost every house of worship in central Rome has an interesting relic and masterpiece painting or sculpture. On a casual morning walk near the hotel, we happened into the Baroque San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane (by Borromini) and Sant’Andrea al Quirinale with four chapels and two rooms honoring Polish Saint Stanislaus Kostka, complete with relics. One evening, we attended a candlelight concert at an Anglican-Episcopal church called St. Paul’s within the Walls, a block from the Luxor. Bach, Beethoven and Liszt sounded divine, and it was effortless. We didn’t need to make reservations and join the crowds at the more famous church concert off Piazza Navona.
Best Guidebook Ever
StyleCity Rome, published by Thames and Hudson, would not serve well as your only guidebook, but it was like knowing the coolest person in town. We never went to one place described in the book that did not live up to their thumbs up.
The Galleria Doria Pamphilj was one example. Not only does it have a stunning art collection and no crowds, and not only is it conveniently located off the Via del Corso, a key shopping street, but the recorded guide by Jonathan Pamphilj enchants with his softly-accented voice sharing childhood memories of playing beneath works by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian.
No Agenda, No Problem
Some of the best vacation moments result from time spent wandering with no agenda. Five of us were drawn to the Aventine Hill, one of the seven on which Rome was built, for its ancient mosaics and a pharmacy that sells soaps and potions at far lower prices than the famous Santa Maria in Novella. One of the most peaceful places in Rome, we found what we came for and more – a wedding, a rose garden, a terrace lined with orange trees, a view of Saint Peter’s through a keyhole in a convent garden gate. During our only bad weather in eight days, a 30-minute interlude of rain, we found refuge under a glass canopy in the front courtyard of the Hotel San Anselmo where we enjoyed cappuccino followed by a mouth-watering tour. I admit to pangs of regret when I saw the silk draperies pooling on the polished floors, and the large bathrooms, but later I decided it wasn’t so tempting at twice the price and half the convenience.
The next afternoon, after missing our bus stop by one, Silvia and I saw the entrance to the ruins of the Diocletian Thermal Baths. In we went, despite being dog tired and ready for a rest. I was as stunned by the happenstance as the enormous Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs, another fine project funded by the Medicis in 1561. Michelangelo was hired, designed the basilica, and died soon after. Here was something three blocks from the hotel that I might have overlooked.
Walk This Way: Guided Tours
At the end of our trip when we asked each of our weary travelers their favorite memory of Rome, they all named our Vatican tour guide, “Enrico!”
Enrico Bruschini literally wrote the book on the Vatican. Vatican Masterpiecesis the museum’s first official guidebook with the author’s name printed on the front.
“Please, sir, may I have your autograph?” said more than one reverent young lady as we walked along the marble halls.
“I love your book,” said another autograph seeker who pulled out of her backpack a laminated copy of an article about Enrico.
Bruschini was the official art historian and fine art curator of the American Embassy in Rome in the 1980’s. He had received considerable publicity after discovering that one of the statues casually decorating the American embassy was a masterpiece: Venusby Giambologna was worth $18 million.
Because of his embassy ties and scholarship, Bruschini has toured presidents Bush and Clinton and many other bold faced names. One American entrepreneur was so taken with Enrico he hired him to travel by private jet, touring all around Italy for a month.
What’s so special?
Kathy McCabe, publisher of the Dream of Italy newsletter, explains it well. “Enrico makes the ancient ruins come alive to such an extent that you can practically hear the roar of the crowds in the Coliseum.” Cokie Roberts wrote that after spending time with him, it would be easy to believe he was personal friends with the artists and popes in a past life.
As he speaks he doesn’t just use his hands; he touches his heart, he gets tears in his eyes. He engages each person in the group and loves to hear visitors’ opinions and theories (is the mantle surrounding Adam on the Sistine Chapel ceiling a human brain in cross-section or a uterus?). He is so enthusiastic one would think our group was the first he ever led. His English is clear and excellent, but he spoke fast, trying to squeeze it all in.
After just fifteen minutes with Enrico, my husband whispered in my ear, “Can we double our time with him?” Luckily, we could, and did, continuing onto Saint Peter’s. Enrico is steep (his base is 510 euros for four hours), but it was unforgettable.
I am a big fan of guides and docents. We hired Giuseppina ‘call me Juicy (Guisy)’ Gurrisi who charged far less than Enrico and gave us a good education at the Forum and Colosseum. At the Galleria Borghese, advanced booking is required; many people were turned away when we arrived for our reserved two-hour slot. Docent-led tours cost just a bit extra. The world’s finest non-royal private art collection includes Bernini’s life-sized Apollo and Daphne, she turning into a laurel tree as she is pursued by the god of light. Without the docent, we would never have known to walk around the statue and watch the evolution from woman to tree.
…and Without a Leader
We went for the Modiglianis but stayed for the surprise (to us!) nostalgic, comprehensive Sophia Loren exhibit at Il Vittoriano, the Victor Emmanuel complex that is topped by a 39 foot bronze statue of Vittorio on horseback. The vast white marble ‘wedding cake’ is a monument to the first king of unified Italy, which didn’t unify until 1870. It is also a rabbit warren of museums, on steroids. If I didn’t happen to be a good eavesdropper, I wouldn’t have known about the enormous terrace café.
When in Rome, you can sit and be served at a table with linens, or pick up a sandwich and beverage from the bar. This often causes confusion. Harris ordered a bowl of pasta while the rest of us grabbed panini. At first, it was annoying that the pasta took so long but we relaxed and enjoyed the vast view. In every big city restaurants with views charge small fortunes, but here was a place that was moderately priced, reservations not required.
Soccer and Other Pursuits
At a sporting goods store the guys bought soccer match tickets ($45) for everyone but Silvia and I, who opted out. Chuck, Clayton, Rebecca, Tiffany and James went by streetcar to a huge stadium where the 1960 Olympics were held. The home team fans sang and chanted, and they were rewarded for their efforts: Rome won. At the end, police came out and stood between the fans and the field.
Meanwhile, my cousin Silvia and went on a wild goose chase sans address to find a new modern art museum that no one had heard of, and no wonder. We finally learned that MAXXI (Museum of Art for the 21stCentury) was due to open in a week or two. It wasn’t totally bizarre that we expected taxi drivers, for example, to be aware of this contemporary public landmark by architect Zaha Hadid. It was quite controversial. Along with a few other buildings, it was signaling Rome’s reluctant acceptance of modern architecture.
This Time Next Year?
In my mind one week was not enough for a villa experience, but my ultimate vacation dream is to rent a villa in Italy for a month and fill it up with family members who come and go. My husband’s role as chief operating officer of a nonprofit is postponing that vision. Still, he says he expects that one of these summers I will go ahead, and he will come for a week, snarling as he has to leave. Arrivederci, darling!
Links of Interest
Hotel Luxor
Via A. Depretis 104
www.luxorhotelrome.com
Hotel San Anselmo
Piazza San Anselmo, 2
www.aventinohotels.com
Dream of Italy newsletter
www.dreamofitaly.com
Enrico Bruschini
Tour Guide
enricobruschini@libero.it
www.profenrico.com
francesca@profenrico.com
Giuseppina Gurrisi
Tour Guide
giusyland@libero.it
San Marco Ristorante, Pizzeria, and Wine Bar
Via Sardegna 38
L’Enoteca Antica
Via della Croce 76
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2
Galleria Borghese
Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5
www.galleriaborghese.it
Complesso Del Vittoriano
Piazza Venezia